Friday, February 26, 2010

rome, 2010 (pictures part two)

villa borghese fountain and dog park--how fabulous would it be to take paco to play here every afternoon?

more pictures! these are days three and four in rome--they were rainy, but that only made for better pictures (photo tip: cloudy, wet days bring out details that bright, sunny ones tend to blast out/obscure in inanimate subjects). it was a fountain-y kinda time in rome, which is exactly what i wanted. there is something so alluring about the color of the water there.

santa costanza, a lovely little jewel next to sant' agnese fuori le mure

this is the architectural plan for santa costanza--it's round, which is unusual for a church (but not for a mausoleum, its original function)

side view of santa costanza

interior, santa costanza

interior ceiling mosaic, santa costanza

interior ceiling mosaic, santa costanza

exterior wall detail, sant' agnese fuori le mure

fontana degli api (fountain of the bees), at piazza barberini and via veneto. i had to shoot this in honor of my name (melissa), which means 'honeybee' in greek

gorgeous brick ruins at villa borghese

fountain near galleria borghese, where i may or may not have gazed upon canova's "paulina borghese as venus" with someone who may or may not have been the male star of "titanic," and i may (definitely not "or may not") have been the only one of the two of us who actually looked at the glorious work of art in front of us and didn't spend all my attention texting on my smartphone...

fontana dei cavalli marini (fountain of the sea horses), villa borghese--love the color of the water here

piccolo lago with temple of aesculpius (god of medicine), villa borghese

piazza del popolo and twin churches santa maria di montesanto and santa maria dei miracoli--via del corso runs straight up the middle (and will take you to piazza vittorio emmanuelle due); via del babuino runs to the left (and will take you to the spanish steps); via di ripetta runs to the right (and will take you to the tiber)

after a rich afternoon of shopping and eating and drinking and looking (all the wonders of rome right there), i attempted culture, again, at the crypto balbi--detail of 1st century drill work above--then went and passed out at my hotel.

elefante! i love this little elephant holding an obelisk in front of santa maria sopra minerva--this is an excellent statue to show kids visiting rome, as they can usually remember it (it was gus and our meeting point if we were to get separated in 2003).

roman bikeshare--this was the only time i regretted wearing a skirt/dress everyday, as i really wanted to rent one of these

piazza di san pietro, now quite different from bernini's original intention for the space

the colonnade still looks lovely, however

fontana delle chiave (fountain of the keys), vatican city--this is my favorite fountain in rome, especially after i shot a series of gus holding a sycamore leaf in it in 2003 (see here)

detail, fontana delle chiave

detail, fontana delle chiave

detail, fontana delle chiave (again, look at the color of that water!)

one of a pair of giant fountains outside of st. peter's, which, alas, just don't do it for me

why does the space around st. peter's irritate the shit out of me? because we were never meant to experience it in a hyper-controlled manner, as we do now. it is definitely controlling, to be sure, but we aren't supposed to be conscious of it. the crowd-control gates, the conspicuous security, the utterly obnoxious jumbotrons and the fucking disgusting billboards right up next to the basillica are just painful. the difference between piazza san pietro in 1982 (when i first saw it) and piazza san pietro in 2010 is marked, to say the least--and that is only a span of 28 years. i can only imagine bernini is rolling over in his grave for what it was intended to be (and remain) 400 years ago.

coppede! i've decided that when i hit the lottery if i can't get my villa on the aventino i am definitely moving into quartiere coppede.

every inch of this late art nouveau structure is absolutely covered with decoration, most of which has no relation to anything or each other. it is all total whimsy on the artist/architect's part and follows no convention that i can identify. love it.

of course coppede has a fabulous fontana of its own (fontana delle rane; fountain of the frogs)...

...which made me realize i needed to see the grande dame of roman fountains, la fontana di trevi

it was a rainy day, indeed, and kept most tourists (save a few hardy souls) away

lovely little ivy carving on the trevi fountain

from the trevi to fontana della barcaccia (fountain of the old boat), piazza di spagna. love. that. blue.

detail, fontana della barcaccia

le swoooooon...that's not technically italian, but you get the drift. i so want one of these--with a matching sidecar for gus and sophie

(speaking of want, the next post will be a break from culture and a look at rome, 2010 (shopping).)

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

happy birthday lindsay!

happy 32nd most loved sister/aunt/sister-in-law from all of us here! i hope you have a glorious birthday celebration today and eat lots and lots of cake (see above). we love you!

Monday, February 22, 2010

rome, 2010 (pictures part one)

this past week has been overwhelming, to say the least. i am just now able to go through all my pictures from rome...and i'm realizing it is going to take a few posts to get them all up. today i'm starting with days one and two--getting to rome and walking around the area near my hotel (the pantheon, fontana delle tartughe, teatro marcello) and then up the aventino where i used to live. stay tuned for parts two, three and probably four!

i had a little something extra packed in my suitcase that i had to take out before i left...

flying to rome, over the italian alps

oculus, pantheon

detail of the fountain outside of the pantheon, fontana della rotonda

fontana della rotonda and rotonda

drinking fountain near the pantheon

fountain near the jewish ghetto, inside a courtyard (the doors happened to be open that day...)

fontana delle tartughe

porticus octaviae, next to teatro marcello

random marble fragments by the teatro marcello

temple of apollo sosianus

arch of janus in the forum boarium

la bocca della verita--each time i walked by santa maria in cosmedin, there was a line at least 50 people deep to get their photo taken with their hand in this. i passed on that, hence the wonky angle of this shot.

interior, santa maria in cosmedin

interior, santa maria in cosmedin--LOVE the cosmatesque floors

clivo dei publicii, with the palatine hill and circus maximus in the background--this is the street i lived on in rome

numero due, clivo dei publicii...home of the suore camoldolesi--it looks exactly the same...

...except the wall across the street is falling over and now has some fairly permanent-looking scaffolding holding it up. this was here in 2003, too; i think i remember it being there in 1996 as well.

this cool little sgraffito was painted on the wall of the convent just outside my window--i'm guessing a tc/rc person is responsible for this site-specific work. i dig it, whoever made it--i wonder what the significance of 1308 is?

my favorite place on earth, literally: parco savello, otherwise known as the orange gardens, the garden of the orange trees, il giardina degli arancii, that cool place next to santa sabina...

the view from parco savello

orange trees and pines--perfect. the orange trees were fruiting like crazy.

and as if this place weren't cool enough already, parco savello now hosts a flock of wild parrots--i can't figure out what species they are, but they are loud and wonderful.

pappagalli in parco savello--i saw about 15 of them at once

i accosted an american couple in the garden (she was carrying a coach bag--total giveaway!) and asked them to take a picture of me in my happy place...awwww...

fountain outside santa sabina

apse, santa sabina, as seen from parco savello

interior, santa sabina, with its selenite (not glass) windows

detail of medieval roof, santa sabina--i believe this is original to the 12th century, but i'm not sure. i think i'm supposed to know that, though--santa sabina was actually on my master's comps.

tc/rc people--do any of you remember this fountain? it is just west of santa sabina, in a really run-down park on the opposite side of the church from the orange garden, next to the knights of malta keyhole. i swear i think i saw this for the first time--i totally don't remember it. however, i do like it. as do the pigeons.

knights of malta keyhole--you are supposed to see st. peter's perfectly framed by the manicured trees in this shot (you can totally do so in real life), but i just couldn't make it work...use your imagination.

down the aventino, across via marmorata, into testaccio to volpetti! volpetti's is perhaps the world's best italian cheese/gourmet food/spice shop bar none. they have a tavola calda in the back, which is easily one of the best restaurants in rome and definitely one of its least pretentious. i spent a frickin' fortune there...yum.

Monday, February 15, 2010

back from the eternal city...

...and already missing it. i got in very late last night, senza my luggage, which got to spend a bit more time in chicago than i did. i just finished making lunch for gus with all kinds of goodies i picked up at volpetti's, and i swear he freaked. he literally licked the pot i cooked it in...and then told me he was certain we were having the best lunch of anyone in iowa city. awwww--i missed him so much.

i have about 2000 photos from rome to go through before i figure out what, if anything, to post (who am i kidding--i'll post more than necessary, i'm sure), so give me a bit to organize myself back here in the frozen tundra before seeing any pictures. ciao!

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

100 hours to ROME

i am so excited i could pee like a cocker spaniel. in less than 100 hours i will be in my very favorite city in the world, roma. rich gave me the gift of time for our anniversary/christmas/valentine's day and, up until about three days ago, i was supposed to be going to yelapa, mexico...but the lures of rome proved too great and i cancelled all things mexican and rebooked for rome.

did i mention i was going alone? i'm going alone. for the first time in my childfull years, i am taking a trip, by myself, that wasn't related to moving to yet another point in the triangle. it is just me, all by my non-lonesome, and rome. how frickin' great is that?! i almost convinced one of my tc/rc buddies to meet me there...but she couldn't swing it. next time.

so, it may be a while before i post again...and if anyone gets any bullshit notifications from me on facebook (like my sister's friends had happen to them) that i've been kidnapped abroad and i need money, just remember: if you don't pay, and i get shot, i'll never forgive you and will haunt your ass until the end of forever...